Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Our First Day of "Work"

John:

After a few days of orientation, we were officially on the schedule to visit the local school, Makuyu Primary. Because the schedule is flexible, we decided to visit the Don Bosco School, which is composed of a primary school (grade school), secondary school (high school), two technical schools (where students may learn agriculture, weaving, tailoring, etc.), an orphanage, a church, and a medical clinic. The place is run by nuns from around the world and a couple of priests. We simply walked in and went to find the headmistress. We were told to wait and Sister Margaret came to show us around. She was an extremely nice lady who introduced us to everyone we walked by and gave us a nice tour of the impressive establishment. This is probably the most expensive place built in Makuyu. It hosts about 500 students total and provides medical treatment to many more. The crops grown are impressive 8 to 10 ft. tall corn stalks that boast corn double the size of those in our "shamba" at the orphanage. After the tour, we were directed to Sister Regina who, with Sister Margaret, decided it be best if we visit on Tuesdays and Fridays around 3:30 or 4 for study time after school and sports time on Fridays.

We walked down the road a bit and found Makuyu Primary School (the one we were scheduled to go to). We met with the deputy headmaster, Stanley, who thought we were volunteers from an orphanage recruiting kids. We finally got the point across to him that we do provide shelter and food at our orphanage but we, ourselves, simply want to tutor or help during study time. We will call him later this week to set up times for that as well. Another quick note: when we entered the school yard, nearly every kid was staring at us, the "mozungos." We're quite a piece of eye candy here.

We then went to lunch. Stanley actually voluntarily walked us to a local hotel to eat some meat and ugali. By the way, at the orphanage the main dishes are made of only rice, beans, and corn (more below). Ugali is corn crushed up and mixed with water. It becomes a hard slab of white and is like extremely thick and easily breakable mashed potatoes. They mix it with everything here. It's like rice in China. It's pretty bland and boring but when mixed with sauces or meat, it can be eaten.

To get back closer to town so our walk wasn't as far back to the orphanage we jumped on a "matatu" or bus. These are like vans that say 14 passengers max but really jam nearly 30 at times. People you don't know will sit on your lap like you're more than friends and your line of sight is non-existent. Oh yeah, they also drive like madmen and wouldn't mind picking off someone in the road.

Once back in the main town, we picked up "samosas" which are like empanadas in Spain or a little pouch of fried bread filled with potatoes and spices. They cost a good 5 Ksh or about 7 or 8 cents a piece. You can definitely travel light when it comes to cash, or "bub," here.

Back at the orphanage we relaxed, I burnt our trash (don't worry, that's how it's done here), and we even fleshed out our measurements and plans for the swingset we'll be putting together. This project will be funded by just Danny and I and will be a nice tangible sign of our visit to WWB. For now, we just relax and enjoy our last day with Maria and Johannes who will be traveling back to Germany tomorrow and share stories about our days.

Side note about meals:

Breakfast
  • 3 slices of bread and chai tea...we, ourselves, bought peanut butter and bananas, oranges, and pinneapples to make it all better
(possibly a hard-boiled egg 1 or 2 times a week)

Lunch
  • Rice, beans
or
  • Rice, beans, corn
or
  • eat elsewhere

Dinner
  • Rice, beans, corn
or
  • Beans, ugali (we haven't had many of the dishes but it's basically just rice, beans, corn and local plants and herbs)

Monday, June 29, 2009

John's Birthday and Other Happenings

Danny:

Yesterday was John's birthday, and it was quite a way to spend it. We woke up yesterday to a bit more hectic of a day because the kids were home. It was also, of course, church day. I'm told that most Kenyans are Catholic (I've heard 80%) but from walking around I've only seen the Catholic church at the Don Bosco center (Catholic charity organization) but have seen many smaller Christian denominations. There is also a small number of Muslims and other religion where people wear headdresses, but I can't remember the name. Anyways, the orphanage has a Christian foundation. Each Sunday the children hold their own "service". Evidently, one of the staff guys usually leads this, but he had the day off. It basically consisted of one of the older girls standing up front with a drum playing the beat to various Christian songs and one of the other girls leading the children in song. Most of the songs were in Kikuyu, so I'm assuming they were church songs. Everyonce and a while we'd get an Amen. There were also periods were the kids would just dance around - I'm told this is typical Kenyan worship. John and I just sat on the side, usually with one of the younger ones in our laps because they couldn't pay attention. Towards the end the kids took turns saying a prayer (I'm assuming) as all the others covered their faces in prayer and then led everyone in a song. It seemed to go in order by age and by the time the younger ones got up there, I think they were scrambling for songs because we heard the "Itsy Bitsy Spider" and "Oh My Darling" in English.

Church was followed by a special lunch put on by two of the volunteers from Germany who are leaving this week. They bought sausages (with kethup!), little cake muffins, and sodas for the kids. We moved all the tables outside and had a bit of an ole fashioned bbq. I, who hadn't really planned anything special for John's bday, saw this as a perfect chance to celebrate. We got all the kids to start the happy birthday song, and I of course let him know it was all planned for him. Their version of the song includes another verse for "how old are you". The Martucci "For he's a jolly good fellow..." didn't catch on...

In the town of Makuyu, there is a public market on Sundays, so we went down there to look around. It's not exactly a tourist trap, so most of the items are things you would buy at a Target or something (well, kinda). We got some fresh fruits to suplement our glorious diet of rice, beans, maize, etc. at the orphanage. There are actually some really good fruits, all grown within this area: pineapples, oranges, bananas, tomatoes, avacados, passion fruit. Other random things for sale there: bags with Nike stamped on them (not from the factory), milking lubricant, DETROITIGERS hat (spelled that way) with a random logo on it, and lots of buckets (for carrying water).

Then, this morning, John and I went around to do more field work with Boniface. I really enjoy the hikes and really witnessing the lifestyles of the Kenyan people. Each field work trip usually means about 4 hours of walking through hilly terain on dirt roads and popping into random farms where a sponsored child lives (sponsored children are orphans but have extended family that can adequately care for them with some support from the orphanage). The conversation can be on anything from microsavings, the condition of the child (health, school), or to inform of a meeting - like the one with all 77 sponsored children we'll have Saturday. Most of it happens in Kikuyu, so John thinks it's pointless. But I love the experience and the chance for conversation with Boniface. The families are always very welcome and usually offer tea or "maize on the cob" (maize laid directly in a fire and roasted) or if you're lucky - fruit. You have to accept out of respect but it is sad that we're taking their tea or fruit when they can barely afford it for themselves. Most of the farms are the grandparents with lots of children. Usually the parents have died of AIDS or have left for Nairobi to try to find work. Today we went to a farm that was 5 kids alone and any over 4 years old would have been at school. One of the kids looked really sick also with snot running down his entire shirt like she had spilled an entire swirled ice cream cone down her shirt. ...More to come later on health/disease here. Anyways, particualarly of note on field work today was a farm we stopped at where the grandfather spoke excellent English. Evidently, he had been raised by Italian missionaries (not sure how that explains the english). He was really interested in talking to John and I and another volunteer, David, from the UK. We talked about everything from politics, corruption, aids, unplanned pregnancy, rape, work - much because Boniface introduced me as "Daniel, the one who likes politics". Note: I've also been known as the "only American with a big family" and "the American with a really hard accent to understand". Anyways, this old man told me about his situation. His daughter was raped to have one kid and another kid was born from a guy who "didn't want to marry her". He is left to take care of both kids, one who is now sick with malaria and he can't afford to take him to the doctor, because his daughter went to Nairobi but won't come back. So, he posed me the question, what should he do? ....Silence on my end. Luckily, Boniface jumped in saying, "it's in God's hands." I guess that's as good an answer as any...

More photos:
A typical rural Kenyan home. This is a good example of the places we visit with Boniface. Cowpen on the left. One section of the house straight ahead and another on the right.
The Central Province landscape with Boniface. There are amazing views walking around..very pretty area.
A shot of the Makuyu Sunday market.
Danny dominating some "What do you have?"...or better known as "Go Fish".
Eric (4) enjoying his Fanta and cupcake for John's birthday.

John blowing out the "candles" on his "birthday cake".

The lunch for John's birthday.

This is big Daniel and little Daniel. Right when we were picked up to head to the orphanage, Geoffrey told us that the kids were happy to meet us especially because there was a Daniel and John in the group. Daniel has quickly become my favorite, so if I come home with a Kenyan kid, it'll be him (kidding, Mom). I'm also Daniel here - basically because it's easier for the kids to say a name they already know (pronounced: Dan-ny-el).

John with Julius during the church service. It's hard not to have one of the little ones in your arms at any one time. It's kinda sad to think that they really haven't had the one on one affection that most kids have growing up, so they look for that from us.

The cow pen.



Saturday, June 27, 2009

Pictures

John:

When the kids are home, it is constant play. We get very tired and exhausted. Here, I am playing the German version of "Trouble" with Naya (Anne's daughter), Jackie, and Sospeter.
We sleep in a wonderful brick building with pretty comfy beds (atleast, mine is) and even have a light!
This is the entrance to Watoto Wa Baraka.

We will post more pictures; however, it's difficult to get shots when the kids are pouncing at the camera. Besides, the camera simply ruins most of the best moments.

Background

Danny:

Wow, well what a few days it’s been. John and I have been able to get past the initial impressions of Kenya and the orphanage to start to get used to this place that will be our home for the next 3 weeks. I realized we haven’t really give much background information about the organization we’re working with (much do to the fact that we didn’t know all that much), but I’ll try to do so now and bring you up to date with some of my experiences since arriving.


Watoto Wa Baraka (The Organization):

WWB as an organization is only about 2 years young. It was started by the director, Geoffrey, with just a couple children and has now grown to a mid-size NGO (non-government organization) that encompasses numerous community development programs and, of course, the orphanage. My good friend, Kaitlin Pigott, came here about a year and a half ago with her boyfriend, Aaron, to manage the program and really made great strides for the program. What once just supported a few children now supports 20 on site and the infrastructure has grown from just a couple small concrete huts to much more (more to come later). This was how I came to know of the organization. Kaitlin actually reached out to me for donations, and I decided to donate my time instead. With my break this summer before business school, I thought this would be a great time to come help out, and fortunately John decided to join me.

The Kids:

Of course, this is the most important part of WWB’s mission. When John and I were picked up at the airport, we were told how excited the kids were to meet us (especially because there is both a Daniel and John here) and interacting with them has certainly been the most rewarding part of the trip so far. There are 20 orphans as part of the orphanage. They range in age from 4 to 14. Given the widespread poverty, prevalence of HIV, reliance on sustenance farming, and the resulting undernourishment of many kids, there is no shortage of potential entrants to the orphanage. However, WWB maintains strict requirements that the children must be orphans (no living mother or father – obviously, but it’s very strictly enforced and many people lie about this), HIV negative, and not have extended family members that could potentially provide for their needs. There is a field director, Boniface, that knows the community very well and handles the identification of new kids. For those kids that don’t meet the criteria but are orphaned, there is a sponsorship program run through WWB. Currently, there are 77 kids in the sponsorship program. These kids are not taken to join the orphanage due to space constraints, HIV infection, an extended family with sufficient means, or other unique situations. There is also a preference not to have more than one child from the same family admitted, so there are just a few brothers and sisters. Each sponsored child is matched with an international donor/sponsor for about $19/month. This money really goes to the organization, but the child and sponsor are connected as pen pals. The sponsored children are monitored by the organization to make sure they’re being taken care of properly, are getting enough food, and doing well in school. Some sponsored kids come to the orphanage sometimes for meals. There are two brothers we met at dinner last night that are older (15 and 17 maybe) who live with a mentally challenged uncle, so they come for dinner or else they wouldn’t eat. However, no money is given to the family. Instead, clothes, some main food stamps, and other materials are provided. I spent a few hours walking around the community with Boniface today, meeting some of the kids extended families and other potential sponsors. There are many tough decisions to be made about whether to support a child, with so many families struggling. However, it’s important for WWB to employ a sustainable model, and simply providing for each kid isn’t so.

Programs:

This is a very proactive and progressive environment, so there is a lot going on but here are the programs underway with a quick description off the top of my head (I’ll do them more justice as we get more involved):

  • Orphanage – provides meals, shelter, support, etc. for 20 kids
  • Sponsorship program – described above
  • Microfinance – really cool program with the local community. Wiki “microfinance” if you’ve never heard of it, but the basics of the program are that local people (mainly women) that don’t have access to banking services and don’t really save money are encouraged to save through WWB. Boniface manages this program also, and on some of our visits today he explained the program to local women. Women traditionally haven’t had access to banking services, but they are more likely to save than men – thus the focus on women. They are encouraged to make small “deposits” whenever Boniface visits them, and over time they earn interest. This is either money or as is soon to be more common – rabbits. WWB has started breeding rabbits, and if a woman saves a certain amount over a certain amount of time, she will receive a rabbit, which can be eaten. This is done at a very small scale (thus, micro). A woman may save 100 Kenyan Shillings a week (about $1.50), but it is a good habit. Hopefully, this money will then be available for when the family needs to make a larger purchase, and WWB counsels on wise purchases that can create future value. If a woman has a strong tradition of saving, loans are made also. For example, one woman took a loan for a new water pump that saved her family the 20 minute walk to the bottom of the hill for water, which would drastically increase her crop yield. A lady that we visited today just made her first deposit and showed us some beautiful blankets she knits. Perhaps, someday she can save enough or get a loan to buy enough yarn to make a lot of blankets and sell those (perhaps to the willing volunteers here). I’m very interested in helping out here, so I’m sure I’ll write more about it in the coming weeks.
  • HIV/AIDs education – there are community education programs around HIV. This includes education on transmission methods, consequences, and there is a focus on finding “community liaisons” to do much of the work. John is very interested in this effort. 80% of the kids here are orphaned due to AIDs taking one or both of their parents, so it is certainly a relevant and critical cause.
  • Women’s Sanitary Napkins – many local women don’t use sanitary napkins, so WWB has been involved in educating local women and providing materials. Something tells me John and I won’t be helping out much here J.
  • Bio-gas – incredible. Previously, natural gas was used for cooking in the kitchen. Now, manure from the cows is shoveled into this big well-like thing and stirred. Somehow (no idea how this works) methane gas is harvested and used to heat all stoves/ovens for cooking here.
  • Sustainable farming/ranching – The vast majority of the food eaten here is produced on site. On site here there are 4 cows from which milk, manure, and someday meat is taken. There are a couple goats. Chickens everwhere (eggs with breakfast sometimes, I’m told). 2 ducks. 2 pigs (the bastards are loud in the morning, actually all the time). Rabbits. Then there is a 3 acre farm that is run by the staff here. The farm includes Maize, cabbage, tomatoes, beans, grass for the cows, and a lot of other things that I can’t remember the name of. Most of the meals are vegetarian, and they’ve been pretty good so far. Only rice, some spices, and a few other things are brought from outside. There are many fruits grown in the area also, so John and I have supplemented our diet with local oranges, pineapples, mangoes, bananas, and papaya.
  • Irrigation – there is a project underway to irrigate the farm area. Right now there is a well that provides water to the farm. But it must be drawn by bucket and distributed to the plants. The new system will pump water to a suspended tank and gravity will distribute water by hoses to the plants. Local craftsmen are working on this now and it should be finished before we leave.
  • Computer education – there is a new building (note: I’m being liberal with the use of the term building) being build as a computer lab. Someday, locals can come to learn how to use a computer and the internet. Volunteers are helping with the construction of the building (window panes, painting, etc.). We picked up a guy, James, outside of Nairobi on our way in on Friday. He will be doing the tiling of the building. James was a nice guy, but insisted that John and I pay for him to come to the US. We’ll see about that – of course, he insisted that we take his cell phone number. Joking aside, he is an example of a pretty successful Kenyan – someone we hope the kids will grow to be. He finished high school, learned a skill, and has become marketable in it. The sad part is that he’ll never really have the means to do much more than support himself and his family – but here, that’s a great thing.
  • Random construction, maintenance – much of the work here is focused on upkeep of the property and other random additions. For example, next week we will help finish one of the German volunteer’s projects – a soccer goal for the kids.

Staff:

Besides Geoffrey, who handles a lot of the donations and budgeting side of things, there is a full-time staff here. I already mentioned Boniface, who manages the sponsorship program, microfinance program, new orphans, and the general progress of the kids. Jeroga manages the farm. Zach cares for the animals and drives. Graces is the cook, and Donna supervises the kids. They are all Kenyan, live here at WWB, and are paid a meager salary.

Volunteers:

Of course, there is much more to do than the staff possibly could, so the volunteers do the rest. I was actually surprised by how developed the volunteer program is. There is a couple from Oregon who have committed to managing the orphanage for the year, replacing Kaitlin and her bf. A cop and a school teacher, they decided to take a year away from it all and work here. They have a 5 year old girl and a 4 year old boy, who are here also. Needless to say, it’s easy to pick their kids out from the others. Quite a place to spend a year for a 5 year old, but they seem to really fit in and get along with the kids. Then, there are about 10 other volunteers here at any time. Right now, besides John and I, there is a guy from England about my age, a 45 year old ex-used car salesman from Arizona, 2 girls from Colorado in college, 1 girl from Pennsylvannia, a couple from Germany, and another 2 girls from England just came today. It seems that John and I are on the shorter end of stints here. Most seem to stay around a couple months and come for a variety of reasons: see the world, mid-life crisis, college program, interest in development/environment/Africa/kids, etc. It makes for a fun environment.

Weather:

Our orphanage is located in the Makuyu district, which is about one or two hours north of Nairobi. Here the weather is very pleasant. We are just leaving the dry season evidently. It’s right on the equator so the weather is pretty similar year round. It is very pleasant at night and in the mornings (probably in the 60’s), then gets into the high 70’s by the height of the afternoon. It’s a much welcome change from the KC and Atlanta summers. This along with the fertile soil makes for very productive farmland. Some of the best in Africa. I explained to Jeroga, the farm staff guy, that I’m from the equivalent in the US, but I had no clue about farming (I think that may have volunteered me for farm work).

Community:

As you can imagine from the above, the vast majority of people are farmers – really, sustenance farmers, meaning they farm just enough to feed their families. The past few years have been drought years and have obviously caused huge problems with hunger and required large amounts of government aid. Pretty much the whole area is just farm after farm. Each family has a few acres maybe, stamped out by a line of trees here or a dirt path there. Then there will be a concrete house with maybe 2 rooms with a tin roof. A latrine and a cow pen usually round out the place. Within what we call Makuyu are several towns. A town is a clearing in the farms where the road gets a little wider and there are a few shops. Usually a hotel (which means restaurant – uhh, yeah), some fruit stands, a little shop with random staples (of course Coke, but warm), maybe a hardware store (concrete and paint only) or tailor, and for some reason there always seems to be a hair salon. This I don’t get because anyone under 14 here has their head shaved – boys or girls. There is also sometimes a church, which looks like everyone must sit out in the street because I don’t think more than a few people could get in there. Schools seem to be randomly set apart. There is public schooling through university, but only the best students can go. Most of our kids go to primary school. About half of the secondary (HS) school kids are boarded for school, so the idea is that there would never be HS age kids at WWB because they would be at boarding school down the road. People here seem to have a pretty pleasant disposition. You definitely get a lot of looks as a Mazungo (I think every word starts with Ma-, so I get them mixed up, but I think that’s the word for white person which usually has a “rich/snob” connotation). It helps when you’re walking around with a staff person or kid. But people smile as they pass and say hello, in whatever language you greet them in. Definitely more of a Georgia vs. NY attitude. And people walk pretty much everywhere. Kids walk to school, parents to work. On our field visit today, we walked a girl home from school and it was easily an hour walk. Very very few have a car and bikes are very rare also. Some bikers charge a small fee to sit on the back of their bike, but that’s probably just done on longer trips. As far as language goes, every educated (and the vast majority are) Kenyan knows 3 languages. They grow up learning their native language. Here it is Kikuyu, which is the largest tribe in Kenya. All of the kids tend to use Kikuyu first. Then they are all taught English in schools and more recently (past 15 years) Swahili is taught also. All of the kids seem to be pretty conversant in English. Even the 4 year olds know what you’re saying and respond to most things in English. The oldest can carry on seemless conversations. Other people, especially older ones, aren’t as versed in English (or don’t care anymore).

Friday, June 26, 2009

We've arrived.

It's 2:45 p.m. here at Watoto Wa Baraka and we're just about a 20 minute walk from the village of Makuyu (population: about 5,000). We landed at Nairobi's airport around 7:15 p.m. on June 25th and went for a stay in the center of town at a nice little hotel. Yet, when we got in, there was no running water and the bathroom was composed of bathroom that was basically a large shower room with a sink and toilet included. We went to sleep (we were both pretty exhausted) around 10:30 but woke up many times to the never-ending sounds of Nairobi. Conveniently, we were housed in a hotel that was neighbors with a bustling bus station.

The next day, around 7:00 a.m., we left the hotel with Geoffrey, our project executive. The streets of Nairobi were very scaring as cars, buses ("matatus" or large van-like buses), bikes, and people drove recklessly and within a foot of each other. Personally, I (John) thought we were going to be in an accident but I definitely trusted our native driver, Geoffrey.

Wow, it's only our 6th hour in the village and I've already got so much to tell. First of all, the internet is slow and there's only one person that can use it at a time. That means, posts may not be very frequent as usage is a luxury. Yet, I'll take advantage of my time and tell a few more things about what we've seen and done:

  • We picked up a local tile professional on the way out of town who will be tiling the new school house and kitchen floors. We also had a nice talk with James about his desire to come to America and the "Kenyan mindset."
  • We toured the "shamba," or farm, where the orphanage has its own 2.5 acres of bananas, tomatoes, red beans, etc.
  • We met the volunteers from Colorado, Germany, England, etc. and are already getting down people's names and making good friends
  • We were taken on a walk with our project manager, Anne, to the local village of Makuyu where we purchased fruit, a water basin, and lunch. By the way lunch was a grand total of about 70 Kenyan Shillings and 78 shillings = 1 USD...So, we got a fairly large lunch for under $1 (and, that was for two people).
  • The kids will be getting back from school any minute so I'll have to leave soon to meet them all (2o or so are here at the orphanage).
  • "Watoto Wa Baraka" means something along the lines of "Children of Blessings."
  • We're near the village of Makuyu and the local language is kikuyu.
  • It's a pretty slow pace of life here. Work at your own pace but break when you want.
  • For this weekend, we'll be oriented with the schedule and told about the different programs such as teaching, HIV/AIDs teaching, and Sustainability and Development, and start working Monday, June 29th.
  • Interesting fact: The program developed quickly over the past 2 years due to the hard work and dedication of two volunteers, Caitlin and Aaron. Aaron actually developed a system that takes the cow manure and water and creates a usuable gas for the stoves so wood stoves are not needed! It's one of the most interesting and visible ways that sustainability takes place here at Watoto Wa Baraka.
  • But, I've really got to go. I feel like I'm missing a lot and I've been here on the computer for 10 min.
  • By the way, pictures to come.
John

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Travel Day

John:

Today we'll travel from Houston to Amsterdam for about 9 hours and then another 8 to Nairobi, Kenya. I'm a little nervous but excited as well because this will be the longest traveling day I've experienced and longest foreign trip I have been on. And, when we land in Nairobi at 7 p.m. on June 25th, we'll be a long way from home.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Welcome!

Welcome to John and Danny Martucci's blog about our trip to Africa!

From June 24th through July 22nd, we'll be working at an orphanage north of Nairobi, Kenya, near Makuyu.

Check out the website: Watoto Wa Baraka